Vitamin C molten crystal, PW31 / CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0)
In 2015, Deborah Tosline wrote and published “Skin Remodeling DIY: An Introduction to the Underground World of Do-It-Yourself Skincare”. Her approach to skin care is based on a scientific background, love of research and over 30 years of DIY skincare experience.
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Have you heard of “free radicals”?
We’ve known about free radicals and oxidative damage for about 50-years.
Free radicals are unstable reactive molecules within our bodies that contain one or more unpaired electrons. Free radicals can pair and bind with healthy cells and cause molecular and cellular damage.
Free radicals are associated with oxidative stress which is commonly known to be a root cause in chronic disease.
The body naturally produces free radicals as a result of normal biologic processes however the body is typically able to neutralize these free radicals. External, excess free radicals may be introduced to the body from influences including: poor diet, unhealthy lifestyle, and environmental issues like pollution.
Free Radical, MFRTA2Dw00, Dw001 / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)
When we are exposed to excess free radicals on a daily basis, they may exceed the capacity of our body to neutralize them, resulting in oxidative stress and age-related diseases.
Antioxidants are known to counteract free radicals and oxidative damage associated with disease.
Antioxidants neutralize and remove free radicals by donating an electron to a free radical or by breaking down the free radical molecule. Antioxidants interfere with the free radical chain reaction and protect the body from oxidative stress. Antioxidants not only help improve general health and wellness, they are beneficial in skin care.
It’s vital to maintain the health of the skin, our largest organ as it provides many functions that maintain health (=beauty).
When I first learned about free radicals in about 1985, my gut instinct was to eat an anti-inflammatory, nutrient rich, whole food diet and consume daily high quality antioxidant nutraceuticals. I did not know if I was wasting my money but my gut (ha ha) told me that I was consuming health “insurance” and I fully supported myself in this way. I have no regrets. I continue to consume anti-oxidant cosmeceuticals and foods on a daily basis. All of my DIY skin care products contain antioxidant ingredients. I saturate myself inside and out in antioxidants (smile).
Consuming antioxidant rich (organic) foods and nutraceuticals are my largest household expenses after monthly home/utility, etc payments. It’s my investment in my quality of life today and most likely tomorrow. This is my insurance towards taking care of myself during my “forever” and if healthy skin is a side benefit… I’ll take it!
To maintain a youthful appearance, protect the skin from external threats that increase our exposure to free radicals.
One way to protect ourselves is through our skin care practices. Basic skin care involves cleansing, moisturizing, simple exfoliation and facials. Advanced skin care typically involves the use of cosmeceutical ingredients and tools to stimulate collagen production and reduce oxidative damage.
Octachlorphenothiazine free radical, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Octachlorphenothiazine_free_radical.jpg
A cosmeceutical ingredient is a combination of a cosmetic product combined with a type of pharmaceutical or “active” ingredient that enhances biologic reactions like collagen production.
Antioxidants, like vitamin C, are considered to be cosmeceutical ingredients.
Over time, antioxidant concentrations in the skin decline. The good news is that you can increase skin antioxidant levels by consuming an antioxidant rich diet, taking nutraceuticals and also by direct application of antioxidants to the skin.
An easy and effective way to deliver antioxidants to facial skin is to use an antioxidant rich serum.
A serum is a thick liquid that penetrates the skin deeper than a facial cream. The watery base, high concentration of active ingredients, and small serum molecules facilitate skin penetration. You may tailor a serum to address your specific concerns but vitamin C is a good antioxidant serum to keep on hand, why?
Vitamin C is one of the most studied and proven antioxidants for skin care maintenance. For men and women alike vitamin C serum is a simple, cost effective way to nourish and improve skin quality. I wrote about using antioxidant vitamins A and C in skin care in 2019 in this article.
Vitamin C, as L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA), plays a vital role not only for general health but also in collagen production.
Studies show that applying vitamin C to the skin helps prevent and treat ultraviolet (UV) induced sun damage (free radicals).
DIY Vitamin C serum is typically made using water soluble LAA. When LAA is blended with water it must be used immediately. After the LAA is mixed with water, when the solution is exposed to oxygen it becomes unstable and begins to degrade. The LAA solution may be stabilized by using additional antioxidant ingredients.
Ascorbic Acid Structure, en:user:Mykhal / en:user:Cacycle / User:Jrockley / Public domain
Always test a new cosmeceutical for potential allergic reactions on the arm for 24-hours before applying to the face.
The simplest and least expensive way to integrate antioxidant vitamin C serum into your skin care routine is to prepare it fresh daily and use it immediately. Add a pinch of 100 percent vitamin C powder to water in the palm of your hand, blend it and apply immediately to the face, neck, chest, arms, legs, and everywhere. It is inexpensive to make and you may use it all over. For a longer shelf life, add a stabilizing antioxidant to the LAA solution and increase it’s skin care benefits too.
Using one antioxidant ingredient is beneficial but using a blend of antioxidants produces a synergistic or combined effect that is better than the effect from any single antioxidant used. For example, ferulic acid is used to stabilize the LAA and vitamin E is often used as a simple preservative.
The synergy of the C-E-ferulic acid blend has been shown to protect the skin from photodamage.
I began using vitamin C serum about 20 years ago. Initially, I made a fresh vitamin C powder/water blend daily and applied it every morning. About 12 years ago, I began making a stabilized vitamin C serum using the following recipe.
Table 1. Vitamin C Serum Ingredients
Vitamin C Serum Instructions
Start with a clean work surface, scale and/or measuring spoons, and small mixing containers. Clean and reuse or prepare new storage containers. This recipe is for one-ounce.
Dissolve the vitamin C and MSM powders in water. Dissolve the ferulic acid in vodka before adding it to the water solution; ferulic acid is not water soluble. After the vitamin C and MSM are dissolved and the ferric acid is dissolved, blend the water and vodka solutions and stir. Add a couple drops of vitamin E oil. Stir. Pour the serum into a clean container, label the container with the date and “vitamin C serum” and store it in the refrigerator.
The blending process takes about a half an hour. The DIY serum costs just a few dollars per ounce. Use it every morning after washing the face and before applying other products. Do not use on red or irritated skin. Test on arm for 24-hours before applying to face.
Notes:
The ingredients for this vitamin C serum are relatively easy to purchase. Vitamin C powder, Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) powder, vitamin E oil and vegetable glycerin are available from local stores. Ferulic acid powder and hyaluronic acid powder are available from Internet stores like MakingCosmetics (not affiliated but I purchase from them often).
Prepare and package a stabilized vitamin C serum using clean practices and it may last 4-6 weeks in the refrigerator. I typically make 4 ounces at one time and store it in the refrigerator for a couple of months.
There are dozens of vitamin C serum recipes on the Internet. Many of them do not include a stabilizer like ferulic acid. If you do not stabilize your vitamin C serum, use it immediately. As it begins to oxidize it will turn yellow; it should be discarded and not used.
After all these years, a DIY vitamin C serum continues to be one of my favorite skin care products. In the past, I purchased a variety of high-end $120 per ounce vitamin C serums for comparison but always returned to my favorite - a DIY vitamin C serum for a pure, high quality and high concentration cosmeceutical that is also, drumroll ….. economical and environmental. Join the DIY enthusiasts to reap these bennies.
If you need more information, go to the library, search the Internet, read my past Blog articles, or get my book “Skin Remodeling DIY: An Introduction to the Underground World of Do-It-Yourself Skincare”
Take good care of yourselves!
XO Deborah
This article is intended to be used as general information only and is in no way intended to replace medical advice, be used as a medical treatment program, diagnosis, or cure of any disease or medical condition. There are no warranties, expressed or implied, regarding the effectiveness of the practices described in this article. Products or substances discussed herein are for educational purposes only and are not intended as recommendations of the author. Practice DIY skin care at your own risk.