Deborah Tosline wrote and published “Skin Remodeling DIY: An Introduction to the Underground World of Do-It-Yourself Skincare” in 2015. Her approach to skin care is based on a scientific background, love of research and over 30 years of DIY skincare experience.
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Representative structures of epidermal surface lipids. ttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2835894/
Skin health is dependent on a healthy lipid barrier. When the lipid barrier is disrupted, it can result in skin issues and disease. The skin barrier trifecta consists of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids which are vital components to maintain and promote firm, plump and healthy skin.
Skin Composition and Structure
Skin is our largest organ. It is highly complex and provides a barrier against water loss and microbial invasions. The skin consists of the epidermis which is underlain by the dermis and then the hypodermis.
The epidermis is primarily made up of keratinocytes which migrate from the base of the epidermal layer towards the topmost layer, referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). Keratinocytes become flat, dead corneocytes that are connected by proteins into single cell layers. The SC continuously exfoliates as part of the skin’s constant regeneration process. Corneocytes are bound by lipid bilayers with the hydrophilic (water attracting) side facing outward.
The dermis contains connective tissue, collagen and elastin, nerve endings, blood vessels, sweat glands, oil glands and hair follicle roots. The matrix of the dermis provides strength and elasticity to skin.
The hypodermis consists of fat. It overlies muscle tissue and provides cushioning and protection.
The Stratum Corneum Lipid Barrier
The corneocyte layers are similar to a “bricks-in-mortar” structure. Corneocytes represent the bricks and the lipid matrix is the mortar. The lipid matrix has been identified to contain about 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 10–20% fatty acids. The lipids are organized as bilayer stacked structures.
The bilayers provide a continuous pathway across the SC and provide the barrier function for the skin. They are responsible for binding water between the cells of the epidermis, helping the skin look smooth and firm and maintaining skin health.
Disruption of the SC Lipid Barrier
Skin problems occur when the ceramide/cholesterol/fatty acid balance is disturbed.
Depletion of SC lipids results in a disturbance of the barrier function which can result in skin diseases including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
To maintain healthy skin under normal conditions and when using Do-It-Yourself (DIY) advanced skin care practices, it is vital to understand the interrelationship between skin health and SC lipid depletion and other factors that impact SC lipid organization and composition.
Schematic representation of the cross-section of the SC. https://www.karger.com/Article/Fulltext/360009
External and internal factors can impact the organization and composition of lipids.
External Skin Barrier Disruptors
External factors that can disrupt the SC lipid barrier include synthetic chemicals, environmental pollution, and pharmaceutical compounds. In addition, there are over “85,000 chemical pollutants in the human environment” that can cause allergic or nonallergic contact dermatitis.
High temperatures, excessive moisture, harsh cleansing practices and skin care products can disrupt the SC lipid balance. High temperatures cause sweating and water loss which can result in dry skin. SC lipids can vary with the season with higher lipid levels in summer and lipid depletion during Spring and Winter.
Internal Skin Barrier Disruptors
Internal factors that can disrupt the SC lipid barrier include age, mental and emotional states and lack of sleep. Stress impacts body chemistry which disrupts the lipid barrier. Poor nutrition impacts cell synthesis that can disrupt SC lipids. After age 20, SC lipids decrease by about 10-15% per decade.
Maintain or Improve the SC Lipid Barrier
To maintain or improve the SC lipid bilayer avoid skin irritants. Use gentle facial cleansers that deposit lipids into the epidermis. Avoid abrasive or irritating cleansers, synthetic detergents, soap-based cleansers, and synthetic additives that can irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions. I have not used a retail facial cleanser for about 15 years. I use a microfiber cloth nightly and splash with cool water in the morning. I periodically use the Oil Cleansing Method.
Limited research shows that SC lipid barrier maintenance promotes plump skin and reduces the potential for barrier disruption and the potential for skin disease.
The Ideal Moisturizer
A ceramide, cholesterol and fatty acid blend in a “golden ratio” of 2% pure ceramides, 4% natural cholesterol and 2% fatty acids or 2:4:2 mimics the skin’s natural lipids and provides an ideal moisturizer to protect and repair the SC lipid barrier.
Ceramides
Ceramides consist of skin replenishing lipids that make up 50% of the skin’s composition. Ceramides are composed of at least 13 different types of subgroups.
Ceramides protect skin from moisture loss and support skin processes similar to other active ingredients including retinol, niacinamide and peptides. Ceramides improve the skin barrier by increasing skin hydration to make skin plump, smooth and firm.
Ceramides break down when exposed to sunlight and oxygen. Store ceramide products in airtight pump opaque dispensers.
Cholesterol
Cholesterol is a vital ingredient that keeps skin plump and firm. A lack of cholesterol can result in dry, dull and lax skin. When cholesterol is combined with ceramides, it hydrates and smooths the skin, improves elasticity and enhances the skins protective barrier.
The organic lipids in cholesterol support the skin barrier, condition the skin and act as an emulsifier. Cholesterol is derived from wool and lanolin or derived from vegetable origin from squalene.
Cholesterol retains moisture and regulates cell activity which helps to maintain barrier function. It works to strengthen the outer structure of the skin and protect it from dehydration.
Fatty Acids
Fatty acids consist of long-chain hydrocarbons most often occurring as triglycerides. Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) are not synthesized by the body and the skin cannot function properly when deficient in fatty acids. Fatty acids reduce water loss, are antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory.
Studies show that applying EFAs to skin helps to repair disrupted SC barriers.
In addition, EFAs reduce the skin’s sun sensitivity. Integrating EFAs in skin care can improve skin health and boost internal EFA levels if they are low.
The most important oils for skin care contain high amounts of linoleic and α-linolenic acid to regenerate the damaged lipid barrier and reduce water loss. Unsaturated fatty acids reduce skin inflammation.
Oils rich in EFAs include plant, nut, and seed oils such as sunflower, safflower, evening primrose, rose-hip seed, and flaxseed oils.
Avoid oils with higher amounts of oleic acid which can be irritating and damage the skin barrier. Only use oils that are cold-pressed which protects beneficial lipids. Oils processed using heat and chemicals can result in irritating byproducts.
Ceramide, Cholesterol and Fatty Acid Recipe
I found a DIY recipe on the Acid Queen Blog here for “Liquid Gold” a ceramide, cholesterol and fatty acid serum that uses the “golden ratio”. The Acid Queen started Stratia a skin care company that makes and sells a “Liquid Gold” product. I will try the recipe in the future but in the meantime, I purchased a bottle of Liquid Gold (I am not affiliated) and have used it for about 5 days. My dryish skin immediately felt nourished and fully moisturized. I’ll need more time with this product but so far I am enjoying this rich moisturizer during this dry Arizona heat.
If you need more information, go to the library, search the Internet, read my past Blog articles, or get my book “Skin Remodeling DIY: An Introduction to the Underground World of Do-It-Yourself Skincare”
Take good care of yourselves!
XO Deborah
This article is intended to be used as general information only and is in no way intended to replace medical advice, be used as a medical treatment program, diagnosis, or cure of any disease or medical condition. There are no warranties, expressed or implied, regarding the effectiveness of the practices described in this article. Products or substances discussed herein are for educational purposes only and are not intended as recommendations of the author.