https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Personal_care_products_for_sale,_Rose_Hill_Rite_Aid.jpg, Ser Amantio di Nicolao, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Deborah Tosline wrote and published “Skin Remodeling DIY: An Introduction to the Underground World of Do-It-Yourself Skincare” in 2015. Her approach to skin care is based on a scientific background, love of research and over 40 years of DIY skincare experience.
I’ve had an aversion to synthetic chemicals from 1974 when I was 14 (51 years ago!). At that time, aerosol deodorants were being investigated because they contained zirconium and chlorofluorocarbon propellants (CFC’s), which were suspected to cause disease. Research showed that when inhaled, zirconium air droplets caused serious lung inflammation and tumors. In 1977, Zirconium use in aerosols was banned by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Little did I know that this knowledge would have a huge impact on my life. I became wary of retail products at that time and with good reason.
The FDA administers cosmetics under the Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act (1938) and has limited authority over cosmetics manufacturing.
It is the manufacturers responsibility to ensure the safety of their products. With few exceptions companies that produce Personal Care Products (PCPs) are self-regulated. Under current regulations, companies are not required to conduct independent testing of their products to demonstrate their safety.
The United States currently bans 11 chemicals used in cosmetics. In comparison, the European Union has outlawed the use of 2,400 chemicals used in cosmetics.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Victorian_Cosmetics.jpg, Ben Sutherland, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
The term cosmetics covers a broad range of PCPs including cleansers, make-up, facials, lotions and creams, hair products and treatments, and more. Chemicals used in PCP manufacturing have been associated with health risks. For example, parabens are used as preservatives to prevent bacteria and fungus in make-up and hygiene products. They are pervasive and found in mascara, lipstick, lotions and sunscreen. Parabens have been linked to poor health outcomes including cancer and disruption of hormones, reproduction, and development.
Research has shown that products sold in disadvantaged communities contain higher levels of contaminants than those sold in wealthier areas. Violating environmental justice and the right of all people to have access to safe products and a contaminant free environment.
Powerful corporations use their wealth to lobby and influence legislators. For example, the Personal Care Product Council spends big bucks to lobby for the beauty industry and against government regulation of PCPs yet they sponsor the Look Good, Feel Better organization which provides support for women with cancer.
Johnson and Johnson (J&J) “aimed to keep people well at every age and every stage of life” for over 135 years. Yet records show that J&J knew that their products contained asbestos.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Rozelle_Parklands_Asbestos_Warning.jpg, Jpatokal, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
Documentation shows that for over about 30 years J&J staff internally discussed the asbestos issue while keeping it a secret from regulators and from the public. J&J staff pressured regulators to prevent asbestos regulation and talc research. J&J withheld information by claiming that the information was “confidential”. J&J intentionally chose to not obtain patents for their talc to hide the asbestos content in their products.
The World Health Organization states that no level of asbestos is safe.
Valisure is an analytical laboratory that analyzed 148 samples from 34 dry shampoo brands for toxic chemicals and found that 70 percent of the samples tested positive for benzene. Benzene is a regulated contaminant and known carcinogen. Benzene has been shown to cause leukemia and other cancers.
Laboratory analyses showed that one spray of Not Your Mother’s Beach Babe dry shampoo contained 158 parts per million (ppm) benzene and that Batiste Bare Dry Shampoo contained 15 ppm benzene. Laboratory analyses have identified 6 ppm benzene in sunscreen, 16 ppm benzene and 18 ppm benzene in hand sanitizers.
The Environmental Protection Agency reports that inhalation of benzene at a concentration of 0.0004 ppm through life increases the cancer risk to one in 100,000 people.
There is no standard for benzene in cosmetic products. The FDA states that PCPs should not contain toxicants however, they allow 2 ppm of benzene if it is “unavoidable” to produce a product that has significant therapeutic value. Using this as a guideline, PCPs were found to significantly exceed the 2-ppm benzene limit for example, laboratory analyses measured 340 ppm benzene in Not Your Mother’s dry shampoo.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Advert_for_Edward%27s_%22Harlene%22_hair_product_Wellcome_L0040432.jpg, See page for author, CC BY 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons
The research showed that the highest amount of benzene was found in dry shampoo brands:
Not Your Mother’s
Batiste
Sun Bum
John Paul Mitchell Systems
The following dry shampoos were previously recalled due to elevated benzene concentrations:
Dove
Sauve
Bed Head
Pantene
Herbal Essences
There is minimal progress at the Federal level to regulate PCP safety. In 2022, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) was passed. This was the first time in six decades that PCP regulation was updated. MoCRA did not increase the number of regulated constituents used in PCPs, instead it developed federal guidelines regarding the use of chemicals during PCP production.
Will the Federal government work to protect us from unscrupulous companies and manufacturers who value profit over the safety of their buyers? U.S. Congresswoman Anna Paulina Luna introduced the “No Toxic Chemicals in Cosmetics Act” in May 2024. This act would ban chemicals including parabens in PCPs.
Under this bipartisan bill PCPs would be considered to be “adulterated” if they contain parabens, including esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid that are used in sunscreens and other PCPs.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ISO_7010_W016.svg, MaxxL, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Congresswoman Luna says it like it is: “Americans are being poisoned. Organizations like the FDA approve these products, and yet women, children and men are suffering the consequences.”
States are beginning to regulate toxic chemicals in PCPs and other products.
In May 2024, California approved a bill to ban toxic chemicals in air fresheners and scented candles. If passed, this requirement would take effect in July 2026. The toxic chemicals used in air fresheners increase the risk of cancer and cardiovascular disease, they dysregulate the nervous system, hormones, and the reproductive system.
The state of Washington passed legislation in 2023 titled the Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act (TFCA) to improve PCP safety to protect people and the environment. In January 2025, TFCA will restrict the use of toxic chemicals in PCPs in Washington. They will provide assistance to manufactures as they transition from the use of toxic chemicals to sustainable and safe practices. They will use certifications to assist with brand recognition and for reformulating PCPs. In addition, Washington’s Senate banned Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), “lead, phthalates, formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers, and other harmful chemicals used in cosmetics and personal care products”.
I do not know why I was repulsed and concerned about synthetic chemicals at the tender age of 14 or why I steadfastly avoided them in my PCPs throughout my life. I am grateful that I followed my gut instinct. As a young adult and throughout my life, I educated myself and evolved to ever cleaner PCPs over time. I shopped exclusively at independent health food stores as a young adult. I read labels always. It takes me forever to shop. Initially, I purchased PCPs at health food stores and some from the drugstore. I purchased products that contained fewer ingredients. Currently, I purchase hair care products from independent companies that produce small batches that do not contain toxic chemicals. With the advent of the internet, I have access to a selection of independent businesses that manufacture PCPs that contain natural ingredients.
Over time, I evolved into making my own PCPs. I adore it. Like most folks who hustle, I am busy! There may not be enough time in the day but I make a point to make certain PCPs.
Benefits of making my PCPs:
control product ingredients
promote the use of rejuvenating, healing ingredients
eliminate toxic ingredients
pay a low cost for the highest quality products
greatly reduce environmental waste which is mandatory as an Earth caretaker
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Turbulent_Tropical_Skies.jpg, NASA Earth Observatory image by Joshua Stevens, using GOES 16 imagery courtesy of NOAA and the National Environmental Satellite, Data, and Information Service (NESDIS). Caption by Kathryn Hansen., Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
I have had a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) perspective my entire adult life. I started small and slowly increased my DIY PCPs over time. I love the results. I periodically try retail products, cheap and pricy. My favorite products are the ones that I make.
I avoid synthetic chemicals to the maximum extent possible in all regards. Life is challenging. Give yourself a break and try to reduce the toxic chemical load that your body must process. Use the simplest safest ingredients to care for your skin, hair and other personal needs. Use natural ingredients at every opportunity. Unethical, greedy corporations will not protect us.
Don’t feed the corporations wealth while they intentionally destroy your health, stop buying their products.
We must educate ourselves and vote with our dollar. I rely on the Environmental Working Group (EWG) to provide access to product safety information. The EWG mission is: “To empower you with breakthrough research to make informed choices and live a healthy life in a healthy environment.” Visit the EWG website here.
If you need more information, check out the local library, search the Internet, or check out my past Blog articles. It would be an honor for me if you purchased my facial care book. Thank you!
Take good care of yourselves!
XO Deborah
This article is intended to be used as general information only and is in no way intended to replace medical advice, be used as a medical treatment program, diagnosis, or cure of any disease or medical condition. There are no warranties, expressed or implied, regarding the effectiveness of the practices described in this article. Products or substances discussed herein are for educational purposes only and are not intended as recommendations of the author.